Roof Tile Installation

The following sequence of photographs shows how a concrete roof tile roof is installed and finished off. The installation of a terracotta roof follows much the same procedure.

  • Step 01
    The roof tiles are delivered to site on shrunk wrap pallets. They are then craned around the site.
  • Step 02
    Everything required to complete the job including tiles, fittings, battens, sarking and any accessories are all deliver to site with the first delivery.
  • Step 03
    The ladder is raised to the roof and is fitted into a purpose made gutter guard. The tilers can now access the roof.
  • Step 04
    Any required safety signs are installed so all other trades and visitors to the site are aware that tilers are working. Ideally no other trade should be on site.
  • Step 05
    The rafter lengths of the roof are measured from fascia line to ridge. The correct set out of the tile courses is then calculated.
  • Step 06
    A gauge rod is then marked up with the correct set out points for that rafter.
  • Step 07
    A string line is used to mark the row of top set out nails.
  • Step 08
    The gauge rod marked earlier is then used to mark the correct set out points on each rafter. Set out nails are then hammered into these points.
  • Step 09
    The battens are now raised onto the roof. The battens should always be lifted up behind the fascia & gutter to avoid any possible gutter damage.
  • Step 10
    The battens are carried over the roof and are laid down on the set out nails that were installed earlier. The tilers can now walk on the battens.
  • Step 11
    With the battens now all on the roof, the next step is to install the roof sarking if the job requires it.
  • Step 12
    The sarking is carefully unrolled across the roof starting at the bottom of the rafter.
  • Step 13
    The set out nails are pushed through sarking and is trimmed at valleys and hips.
  • Step 14
    The battens are laid across the sarking being supported by the set out nails. This also prevents the sarking from lifting in the wind.
  • Step 15
    If the sarking membrane is holed at any time, a special sarking patch tape is used to repair the hole.
  • Step 16
    The battens are cut at hips and valleys and the sarking is progressively installed to the entire roof.
  • Step 17
    The roof battens are nailed to the rafters with a high pressure nail gun. The nails used will vary depending on the fixing requirements of the roof.
  • Step 18
    The next step is to rig up the tile elevator. An elevator prop is nailed to the roof and the elevator is rested on it.
  • Step 19
    The tiles are then placed on the elevator belt and they are lifted to the roof. Before they go the PVC bundle tie is removed.
  • Step 20
    The tiles are distributed across the roof and rested on the battens. Care is taken to load the roof evenly.
  • Step 21
    The anti ponding board that supports the sarking at the fascia line is now fitted. Clouts are used to fix the APB to the rafters.
  • Step 22
    In this picture the APB can be seen under the sarking.
  • Step 23
    The tiles are clipped down using tile clips in the required quantities as per the fixing requirements.
  • Step 24
    Valley seal can be installed under the valley cuts to prevent valley flooding and to support valley cuts.
  • Step 25
    All cuts at the valleys are scribed so they will fit neatly into position when cut. A special tile cutter is used.
  • Step 26
    The sarking is carefully unrolled across the roof starting at the bottom of the rafter.
  • Step 27
    The valley cut is positioned in the valley. Sometimes the cut will need to be supported. Chicken wire or a small piece tile can be used for this.
  • Step 28
    The finished valley is swept clean of any tile debris. The finished valley should have a minimum gap of 100 mm.
  • Step 29
    The off cuts from the valley cuts seen here are now used as hip cuts. This reduces waste and saves time.
  • Step 30
    The hip cuts are fitted down the hip line.
  • Step 31
    When the top course of tiles needs to be cut, a special "Short Course" clip is used to secure these cuts.
  • Step 32
    Win the past these cuts would have needed to been drilled and screwed to the batten.
  • Step 33
    When all of the various tile cuts have been fitted next step is to dry lay the ridge fittings.
  • Step 34
    All hip and ridge lines are covered with ridge fittings. The fix is now complete. The tilers will finish off the job when other trades have finished.
  • Step 35
    When the tilers return to finish off the roof they mix a bedding mortar using a fatty loam and cement in a 4:1 ratio. The mortar is carried up in buckets.
  • Step 36
    A bedding frame is used to give the tilers a guide to lay down the bedding mortar and also keep the ridge tiles straight.
  • Step 37
    When the hips are finished the tilers follow the same procedure to install the ridge tiles.
  • Step 38
    When the ridge and hips are done the bedding is pointed smooth with a trowel. At this point a steel rod is used to form the weep holes in the bedding.
  • Step 39
    In this close up shot you can see how the weep holes allow any moisture that collects on the head of the tiles under the ridge to drain.
  • Step 40
    Where two hips and a ridge line intersect a purpose made apex tile is used to cover the intersection.
  • Step 41
    With all fittings now bedded down, the tiler commences pointing the ridge fittings with a flexible pointing that is colour matched to the roof.
  • Step 42
    In this close up you can see how the flexible pointing forms a 3mm-5mm skin coat over the bedding. This skin is flexible and will not crack and fall out.
  • Step 43
    On gable ends tapered barge tiles are often used to seal the end of the roof. The starting barge is marked and trimmed to fit into the gutter.
  • Step 44
    The starting barge also has bird wire inserted to prevent vermin getting into the roof space and to provide reinforcing for the pointing.
  • Step 45
    With the starter barge in place the rest of the barge are screwed into the barge board. They are a dry fitting and are only pointed at the base and the gable apex.
  • Step 46
    The apex barge tiles are trimmed to allow fitting of the ridge tiles.
  • Step 47
    The ridge is bedded in and the joins are pointed with bedding to seal them and prevent water ingress.
  • Step 48
    The whole gable apex area is then finished off with flexible pointing.
  • Step 49
    The base of the gable is bedded using the bird wire for support. A weep hole is formed and the flexible pointing is trowled on.
  • Step 50
    With the roof complete the site is cleaned up with all roof rubbish and debris being placed in bins or designated rubbish areas.